Switzerland, the country that keeps its wine to itself, grapples with its own identity

It is a through-the-looking-glass alternative to Australia, but not everything is fine in Swiss wine.

“Careful… CAREFUL!” 

The bespectacled figure of Marie-Therese Chappaz moves across the cliff face of her alpine vineyard with a practised, sure-footed assurance, but she’s right to caution…